Thursday, 19 April 2012

Musings: The ID Card



For long-time Hongkongers* above the age of 11, having an I.D. card is a part of life. One can obtain it through being born in this city, by parentage, or by residing here for 7 years. The full details of this is listed on the government webpage, though even with all their fancy wording, the defining parameters for who exactly constitutes a permanent Hong Kong resident is still a mess. There is a lot of controversy regarding these criteria, and rather than delve into those matters (one can hear about it in the news, which consists of emotive and sensationalized statements from both sides of the argument. And given what C.Y. Leung, the Chief Exec-elect is saying in his press statements, the first criteria looks as though it will be challenged.) I'm more interested in considering the nature of an I.D. card itself.

For starters, the card is a means to identify ourselves, to delineate our individual statuses in this populous society. Many parts of our social lives depend on it; from the overt purposes of voting, seeking employment, attaining medical care, or having a bank account; to the more discreet need for an I.D. number to apply for memberships in clubs, getting a phone subscription, and whatnot. My I.D. number was needed for bike rentals (see post about cycling to Tai Mei Tuk.) With the card having such a wide range of applications in our daily lives, it is possible that a phenomenon called 'function creep' has come into play. The most basic meaning of 'function creep' is where some form of item gradually infiltrates our daily lives to fulfil different domains of needs. We become over-reliant on this item, treating it akin to a limb. 

While these cards fulfil our personal daily needs, it also serves the needs of the governing body. It might seem as though having this I.D. card benefits the holder by allowing them to glide through Hong Kong immigration controls with ease (and who hasn't done this while smugly looking at the immigration queues for visitors), but it also helps the government departments keep track of who is going where and when. The holder can apply for welfare with the card, but it also lets the governing body know what you are up to, and what your finances are like.  I.D. cards facilitate the surveillance needs of a governing body. Surveillance often has negative connotations within the media and common imagination, but can have positive applications especially in the context of crime. The reason why the positive is often overshadowed by the negative is because surveillance technology is easily abused, or has the potential to be abused, by the people who employ it. Surveillance is a huge topic of discussion and broaches on many social issues, especially in helping the formation of a 'police state', invasion of personal privacy, and the erosion of civil liberties, just to name a few...


(And just wondering; do we ever question why police seemingly pulls people aside on the streets for an I.D. check? What sort of criteria do they use to select these people?)

These identity documents can also be socially segregating, denoting different degrees of rights received by segments of the population. Having a card confers certain rights to the holder, allowing access to medical, education, welfare, and other government-provided benefits. But at the same time, it also denies certain rights to those residing and working in the city without a permanent I.D. card. I'm specifically referring to the different identity documents held by Filipino domestic helpers, emphasizing their temporary statuses in Hong Kong, that can lead to differential (dare I say, discriminatory?) treatment towards them by the government and by the wider population. (On another tangent, do check out the 2011 Filipino residency bid in Hong Kong. It touches upon just whom the Hong Kong government wants to give a permanent I.D. card to, alluding to notions of 'desirable' and 'undesirable' citizens. Google 'Vallejos v. Commissioner of Registration'.) 

But if we are going to criticize the I.D. card, why shouldn't we extend the same points towards the Octopus card? The only difference between the I.D. card and the Octopus is that one is explicitly stated as being mandatory by the government, the other advertised by a corporation as a convenience for our daily lives. (And like the I.D. card conferring rights to its holder and denying it to those without, those with Octopus cards also pay a little less for their train fares in comparison to those who buy tickets for each individual trip.) We don't perceive the same qualms with Octopus cards which exhibit the same 'function creep' traits as the I.D. card. The Octopus was first introduced for use on all modes of transportation, and is now a mode of payment for supermarkets, fast-food restaurants, convenience stores, and other retail services. The amount of personal information submitted to obtain an Octopus card transformed it into something of a secondary I.D. document (check out the 2010 Ming Pao article for more details.) The personalized Octopus knows your I.D. card number, your bank account details (for automatic refill when credit is low on the card), and all of your contact details. 


With all that personal data floating around the information banks of a single corporation, just how can we guarantee that it is treated in a suitable manner? The 2010 article from Techwire mentions how personal information of some Octopus users were sold to other business groups, for the sake of profit. It is worrying that despite an apology being issued by the Octopus group, and that this transaction of personal data did not result with any major consequence asides from an irritating ad here and there, this giant ethical question mark remains unresolved. But what is even more worrying is that the Hong Kong population did not display any large outcry from this abuse of trust, and simply got on with everyday life. 


And, if the Octopus card can abuse personal information for its own benefit, how could we be sure that personal information from our I.D. cards won't be/hasn't been used for the interest of a select few? 

There is a bundle of unanswered questions in my head. Why is an I.D. card mandatory for Hong Kong, when there are other countries that do not use it, or just makes obtaining it an optional endeavor? (For example, I chose to get an I.D. card from the California DMV because I needed to prove I was over 21 to enter Dave and Buster's for a social night. Noble, so noble.) Other countries such as the UK and Australia don't require I.D. cards at all, have clear reluctance towards implementing an obvious national identification system, and yet manage to harbour functioning societies that do not delve into chaos and anarchy. Why do we need to carry these I.D. cards with us all the time, and why must we present them to government bodies on the streets if requested? 

I think this entire rant was derived from my finding I.D. cards to be rather strange. My concerns are not only based on privacy issues (well, seeing how I have facebook, twitter, and a blog. And growing up in a city filled with CCTVs tends to desensitize one from such matters), but more to do with people in this city becoming accustomed towards having our entire lives being compressed into a series of numbers and data fragments on a microchip. It is indeed a unique sensation to have one's entire being and self being summed up by a material item a fraction of our physical weight. I'm neither against or for having an I.D. card, seeing how I grew up within this reality of enumerating my personal bio (heck, even the Chinese characters of my name are coded, which is awfully Borg-like), but it is important to ask questions... 


[This post will continuously be updated.]

*one of my postgraduate friends in the UK, upon hearing that I was from Hong Kong, jokingly referred to me as a 'Honkie'. Politely put, this is NOT the preferred term to use. Because it is unknown if my friend used the word with its associated negative connotations (it is often the case that people who make such gaffs are those who do not thoroughly examine the meaning of words), it wasn't worth getting offended or angry. 


It should also be said that whom term 'Hong Konger' encompasses is not very well defined. I've been asking around, but no one can give me a direct answer. Based on what I've seen and heard, there seems to be a  combination of linguistic, residency, ethnic, education, I.D. card, and birth-place component at play...
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For more information on this topic:

-Greenleaf, G. (2012). 'Hong Kong's 'Smart' Id Card: Designed to be Out of Control'. in Bennet, C. and D. Lyon (eds.) 'Playing the Identity Card', Routledge (Online version as PDF file.) (This author also has other articles pertaining to the Australian response towards a national identification system, a good read.) 
-Lyon, David. (2008). 'Surveillance Society'. Talk for the Festival del Diritto, Piacenza, Italia. (Online version as PDF file.)  

Tuesday, 17 April 2012

Weekend: Cycling, Tai Wai to Tai Mei Tuk


People are getting really into the cycling lifestyle, and I'm not referring to those ah-baks cycling around in the middle of the city delivering take-out food or giant canisters of gas. Cycling is a growing movement in the city, manifesting through cycling-devoted groups (ranging from government-sponsored bodies dedicated to cycle racing, mountain bike enthusiasts, and an NGO seeking to raise awareness towards the concerns of HK cyclists. For the latter, check out the Hong Kong Cycling Alliance website and facebook. They offer comprehensive info on carrying your bikes on public transport, safety tips, and more.) If you live in the New Territories like I do, you'll see die-hard cyclists in their lycra cycling outfits pedalling around on their racing bikes every evening. (There is also the amusing sight of lycra-wearing cyclists...on a tiny urban fold-up bike.) But for most people, the sport itself is a weekend activity for socializing. 

My friend and I chose to do the Tai Wai to Tai Mei Tuk route on a Saturday, which has been covered by CNN.go and HK Magazine. It is one of the most popular cycling routes (removed from traffic for the most part, is well-paved, and signposted**) in Hong Kong, offering paths through some of the nicest scenery. The routes are well paved, and are generally wide and spacious. (Because of the construction near the site of Providence Bay after passing the Science Park, there are barriers erected on the left side of the cycle path. It doesn't obstruct the path itself, but many cyclists bottleneck themselves along this stretch because they all swerve to the middle to avoid colliding with the wall.) 


The signposting is fairly consistent throughout the first leg of the journey, though it seems to be sparse upon reaching Tai Po. There was no sign pointing towards Tai Mei Tuk when we reached a fork after exiting a subway tunnel, and we had to ask another cyclist for directions. As a marker, if you pass by the Tai Po Industrial Estate on your right side, you are heading in the right direction. 

While the bike route is mostly self-contained (not having to share it with pedestrians or cars), there are certain sections where you will intersect with a pedestrian pavement or traffic crossing. In the latter case, even if it seems as though there is no car approaching, just wait until it is your light to cross. Cars have that uncanny ability to suddenly show up when least expected, and safety should always come first. As some would say, a car is 鐵人 (person encased in iron), whereas a cycle is just 鐵 (iron encased by a person.) Upon impact, it isn't hard to guess who would come out with fewer injuries. 

The cycle shop we rented our bikes from in Tai Wai. We went with this one one because it was situated very close to the East Rail station, though you can ask locals for cycle shop recommendations if you need to. 

We were charged 80HKD/each for bike rentals, and that is for the entire day ('day' being defined as until daylight fades: returns must be made by 7pm.) I'm sure we got suckered since both my friend and I look like out-of-towners, but it wasn't an outrageous price so we went along with it. In regards with bike returns, most shops will have a drop-off point in Tai Mei Tuk (though if you choose to bring the bike back to Tai Wai, you might earn a bit of a refund with the bike rental fee, around 10HKD in this case), but you should ask explicitly where they are in Tai Mei Tuk. We learnt this the hard way; the drop-off point for this bike rental shop was actually a 5 minute bike ride (15 minute walk) outside of Tai Mei Tuk, on a small village road full of cargo containers. It took some luck to even spot the shop banner hanging from the mesh fence. It looked like something straight from the deserted streets of downtown Los Angeles.  

Do check the bike before leaving the shop, making sure the wheels are inflated, the front and back brakes are functional, the grips aren't worn down, and the height of the bike seat is appropriate (normally, I prefer the seat to be high enough so that my toe barely touches the ground when I'm standing straight. If the seat is any lower than that, my knees hurt during cycling because they are forced to bend too far.) Have the shop adjust these things for you, and don't be scared to ask for a different bike if you are not satisfied with the one provided by the shop staff. And if the cycle plan intends for stops at several locations for rest or sightseeing, ask about bike-lock rentals as well (or just bring your own.) 


The cycle path travels alongTolo Harbour, so there will be plenty of sights like this. This photo was taken a little off the cycle path (less than a minute away from it) just before entering Tai Po

No bike lock for us, so we were always keeping an eye out on our rides. It is worth stopping at Plover Cove for a bit of a sit and a think. There are some hipster-types by themselves, sitting on the rocks, looking into the distance, and writing in their Moleskin notebooks. It is a good place to contemplate the meaning of life, and have a bit of private angst...at least before the crowds arrive.  
Sitting at Plover Cove Reservoir. With such nice scenery, we brought our own snacks and lunched outdoors. (If anyone else plans to do so, please don't leave any rubbish behind.)  

The road at Plover Cover Reservoir. It isn't strictly a cycle path, but park authorities driving in their van are fairly patient (didn't even use their klaxon once) and will give cyclists time to move aside for them. But beware of the pedestrians along this stretch, and also at either end of the roundabouts! There are plenty of people who come up here to fly kites, and their kite strings can entangle an unwary cyclist.

View from the reservoir, people enjoying the watersports facility in Tai Mei Tuk. Windsurfing is another big thing in the Hong Kong sports mindset.  

Tai Mei Tuk is a great destination for cyclists, thanks to its scenery and its good selection of restaurants and places for refreshments. However, because the location has been on the tourist radar for quite some time, the prices and food venues have 'upgraded' itself. (Though it was good to see that the Thai restaurant I went to back in 2006 was still pretty much the same.)  If the price range of an indoor eatery is a little over one's budget, head to the waterfront area and there will be some cheaper outdoor eats, such as curry fishballs and noodles. Alternatively, if you are willing to lug a bag of coal, raw foods, and other BBQ equipment on your bike, Tai Mei Tuk has plenty of BBQ hearths for public use.  


Since a large part of Tai Mei Tuk is devoted for BBQ-ing visitors, so prepare for a lot of smoke and noise near these sites. There are quiet spots away from the Tai Mei Tuk crowds, such as this little bit of coast. There isn't any 'official' access to this stretch of rocky shore, but someone did gouge an earthy path from the road that leads to it. There were only several other people there picking up shells. 

If you return your bike in Tai Mei Tuk, you can catch the 75K bus at the bus terminus (close to the big BBQ site) back to Tai Po Market station, which will link you up with the rest of the MTR system. 

Note: If you are not sports-inclined, I would recommend cycling up to Tai Po, since the entire length of the route from Tai Wai to Tai Mei Tuk can reach around 20km. It might not sound like a great distance, but under the sun and wind, it adds up to quite a bit of physical exertion. There is a great Waterfront Park in Tai Po to explore, not to mention that Tai Po is interesting in itself. 

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Tips:

Tip 1: Start your journey early to avoid the post-lunch afternoon rush! We started around 10am, and arrived in Tai Mei Tuk a little before 1pm. By the time we left the area at 4pm, the crowds were starting to cycle in by the dozen...including those cyclists with the loud boombox (literally a boombox, not just any music player) strapped to the back of their bikes. They would make for an interesting anthropological study...the culture of boomboxing bikes. 

Tip 2: If you are cycling on the weekends, keep an eye out on the cycle path. Like the phenomenon of 'weekend drivers', those who only take their cars out for a spin on the weekends, there is such a thing as 'weekend cyclists'. They tend to be a bit unpredictable with their turns, and are prone to braking suddenly, so it would be ideal to overtake them when you can. (Unless said 'weekend cyclist' is your mate, in which case, there isn't much you can do short of making new friends.)

Tip 3: If you can't cycle uphill, walk it. There is no shame in doing so! Better be safe, than to struggle on your bike and zig-zag into someone else. (Notable uphill stretches; the subway tunnels near the Science Park; the road just before entering Tai Mei Tuk; and the path to Plover Cove Reservoir.) 

Tip 4: Some bike rental shops will require identification documents as a means of guarantee when renting their wares. Bring your ID card/passport with you. 


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** post edited due to the comment from Dennis (see below)

Friday, 13 April 2012

Weekend: Sai Kung, Hong Kong Geopark

Weekend lolls around, time to venture around. With the weather warming up and the sun returning to the Hong Kong skies, it was a good time to take a day-trip out into the Geopark area by boat. Unknown to a lot of people (well, unknown until the news coverage about the Geopark a couple of years back), Hong Kong has a plethora of geological formations that are just as incredible as those you see overseas. 

Less musings from me on this post, mostly photos and captions of the Ninepin Group (果洲群島) we went to: 

Leaving the hustle and bustle of the city for a day

The boat we took. The tour guide was sitting at the very front, and it was difficult to hear what was being said given the din of the other passengers and the sound of the boat engine. But it was a Cantonese tour, so despite my aptitude with everyday Cantonese (ordering stuff in restaurants, asking for directions to the loo, etc.), I wouldn't have understood the complex terminologies being used. 

We were supposed to hop onto the Ninepin Group for a bit of exploration by foot, but the waves were too strong for the smaller boat to get the passengers safely onto that rocky outcrop. Our group went back for a second attempt in the afternoon, hoping that the change in tides would bring about better conditions; but alas, it was not meant to be. A boat staff member that clambered onto the island had difficulties trying to get off it afterwards.

But can still admire the columnar joints from afar! Their hexagonal shape aren't noticeable from this angle, but if you managed to get onto the island and take a look from above, it would be evident. The presence of columnar joints means that Hong Kong used to be a site of volcanic activity, though the craters from such a past are not visible today (the prof I talked to said the crater would have measured 20km in size.)

An arch in the area (alliteration!) I'm personally stoked to see this in Hong Kong, since we've learned about these formations back in school but never had a chance to see one locally. 

The smaller boat ferried passengers close to the arch; the waves were very turbulent and occasionally splashed onto some of us. Best not to wear your favourite garbs on days like this. The smaller boat intended to take us through the arch, but the waves were just too strong.


After checking out the Ninepin Group from a distance, we went onto Tung Lung Chau (東龍洲) for a bit of food and a mini-hike up one of their strangely named hills that infers to a 'female chicken/hen'. (I've tried looking for a bit more information about how this name came about, but no luck so far.) Am not a big fan of outdoor activities, and hiking ranks low on my list of 'to do' things, but even I thought it was a worthwhile walk.

The Geopark tour we went on was a specially-arranged one, but you can head to the Sai Kung piers during the weekends and catch a boat that will take you onto the waters. Browse around first for the better deal, and ask as many questions at the counters before joining. The fees for these will vary (at least 80HKD upwards for about two/four hours.) 

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Detour:

No day tour by boat is complete without heading off for lunch on an island. They can be tourist traps, cheesy with their decor, and not the poshest places to have a meal, but it is all part of the experience. Here are some snaps of that:

The restaurant was called 'Seafood Island' (海鮮島); not being discreet about the sort of dishes they specialize in. Expect to see big tables for twelve, plastic table covers, small toilets, and a pretty loud dining environment. But if you're on a group tour, you don't exactly expect peace and quiet to begin with... 

The island we were on during lunchtime. There is a very small Tin Hau (天后, also known as Mazu in other cultures) temple to the very left of the settled area. Tin Hau temples are common in this area because of the fishing heritage in the area.  

Fishing boats docked around the waters

Everyday items in the fishing village. This was an old lady's kitchen area, and she produces her own dried shrimp (蝦米) there. The dried shrimp was a bit pricey, but she also sells other sorts of tasty desserts, such as... 

...this tasty thing. They are called Cha Guo (茶果), which comes in a variety of forms, flavours, and fillings. This one was served on a leaf, and you buy them as a whole (I was sharing with a friend, hence the lady cut it in half for us.) The inside of this one was filled with shredded radish, dried shrimp, and a bit of mushroom. It tasted mildly salty, but it was delicious.   

Old fashioned grinder, don't see many of these anymore

Wednesday, 11 April 2012

Further Afield: Macau



Any Hong Kong person will know that long-weekend trips don't involve checking into a nearby hotel for drinks and relaxation, you must at least leave your own backyard and venture over to another city or country. Many will flock to the airport for flights to other Asian localities in Thailand, Vietnam, Taiwan, or Japan. But if you are a student on a student budget (hello there, brethren), Macau is the more viable option. Only an hour away by ferry from Hong Kong, without requiring any fuss over currency conversion, it is close enough to dispel the hassle of getting to the airport at 6am to make the most of your time, and far enough to earn you nods of approval from other long-weekend travellers at the next social gathering. 

The last time I was in Macau was back in 2003, for an art class back in high school. It was astounding to see how much Macau has changed in the last nine years (especially after comparing the 2003 maps with the Macau we see today), though my thoughts on these changes are divided. 

 
The marshy land used to dominate the landscape here, though there are only fragments of this left. The reclaimed area is what is now known as Cotai. This is the view from our room; we can see the PLA driving tanks and marching around in their complex, and beyond that is Taipa Village (just before the high-rises in the background.) Charming, if a bit unnerving.  


Increases to the city's wealth (to the point where the Macau government has been able to give thousands of dollars to each of its card-carrying residents) can have its benefits, potentially leading to better standards of living, and improvements to healthcare and educational facilities. That is something we have been told in our GCSE classes about urban change. But this development has been spurred by the manifestation of giant shopping malls, hotels, and casinos; which makes Macau feel less like a city for its long-term inhabitants, and more of a giant entertainment centre for transient out-of-towners. 

This doesn't mean that the old sights of Macau are gone. There are old-fashioned shops in the less-trodden paths of the city; historical structures are well preserved and integrated into the urban landscape; and there is also a synthesis of the old and new (old buildings housing new shops) in places such as Senado Square. But as Taipa village demonstrates, older areas tend to exist in enclaves within the shiny new residential and commercial buildings. Which is a shame, considering how much of a draw these old areas are for some tourists and all hipsters. Check it: 

Taipa village, near Cunha street. The structure seen in the foreground is what remains of the Old Taipa Market, which was built in the 1800s to bolster trade in the area. As the years progressed, the market fell into disuse until it was emptied in the 1980s. 

Pak Tai temple, located near a beer garden...the whiff of alcohol and tourists is never far away.




Old houses that remain inhabited. Always had the urge to peek inside to see what things are like, but there would always be a resident at the ready to peek back at me. Master of stealth, I am not. On another note, these little pathways are great for evening strolls. 









A little about Taipa village: one of the main attractions would be Cunha Street (官也街), a busy little road with a lot of small eateries. If you are in Macau, you definitely must try the fried pork buns. One of the shops on Cunha produces a nice variation of the traditional pork bun, by using crunchy small baguettes and lightly frying the porkchop after seasoning it with chilli and a bit of curry. There are also plenty of bakeries hawking the locally-made almond biscuits; the great thing about these bakeries is that they allow sampling without making one feel obliged to buy anything. Have a meal out of the pork buns, then go for dessert by snacking through the biscuit samples. 


One end of Cunha Street. This building sold almond cookies by Choi Heong Yuen on the ground floor, and cute 'Soda Panda' character items on the upper three levels.



Say hello to Soda Panda! 



The rustic and charming the streets of Taipa village cannot fend off the feeling of an encroaching 'urban modernity' surrounding it. The lights from The Venetian hotel, The Galaxy hotel, Hard Rock hotel, and The City of Dreams shopping boulevard can be seen in the distance. You'll be walking along a small alleyway and suddenly encounter a thoroughfare for buses and cars. Not to mention that we were led from our hotel to Taipa village on a series of escalators and conveyor belts. It is almost as though the tourism board in Macau realized that some visitors want to explore the older districts of Taipa*; and thus decided to splurge a little by building infrastructure that literally 'walks' these visitors over to such an attraction. Had a 'Disneyland' feel to it. 


Not kidding about the encroaching buildings around Taipa village

Like space-age tourism! No walking required.  Unless it is to get from one conveyor belt to the other.

In retrospect, my reservations about the current developments in Macau aren't completely fair; because ultimately Macau was, is, and always will be somebody's home. The sprawl of shopping malls in cities, and other structures catering to the tastes of tourists, is not strictly a Macau feature. Hong Kong is struggling through the same transformation of mall-mania, but I still find the city habitable; so making such commentary about Macau is a bit rich from me. Who am I to say that the home of another person feels 'empty'? And some tourists do derive delight from  browsing the giants hotels and staying in the casinos...


No matter what the urban environ of Macau becomes like, the city remains a worthwhile place to visit for a short period of time. 

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*The tourism board may realize the value of old districts for tourists, but this view isn't always shared by those who interact with tourists on a daily basis. Here is a funny little incident during our stay at the Venetian, which may highlight what some hotels and their staffers now perceived as a tourist draw: 

We wanted to head to Senado Square in Macau, but there was no hotel shuttle bus heading towards that destination. All of the shuttles were for the piers, shopping malls, casinos, or other hotels. Lacking in maps and directions, we sought help from three different staff members. Why three members of staff? Because the first two (or the last one, for that matter) couldn't give us a proper answer. They all looked confused as to why we even wanted to go to these older areas in the first place. The first staff told us to take the Venetian shuttle to the Sands hotel, where they would have a direct shuttle to Senado Square. The second staff told us to take the shuttle to the Yuet Tung Pier and look for signposts there. The third staff was even more worrying (they thought my map of Macau was the map of Taipa) and told us to take the shuttle to the northern immigration checkpoint and walk from that point onwards. Out of these three options, we followed the advice of staff no.1 and decided to head to the Sands hotel first. But upon getting to the Sands, the Sands staff said there was no shuttle heading to Senado Square; such a shuttle didn't exist. They then waved us away after essentially saying 'take the taxi, or take public transport. Check the info at the bus stop'...without telling us where the bus stop actually is. 

We gave up and just took the taxi in the end. Thankfully it wasn't an expensive journey (costed about 25 HKD) and the ride was comfortable. 

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Ferry tips: 

-Tip 1: buy those darn ferry tickets in advance, especially if you plan on taking the cheaper option of economy class. These ferries can get fairly busy even during the weekdays. 
-Tip 2: Tickets arriving to/leaving from the Kowloon piers in Tsim Sha Tsui is cheaper than those for the Hong Kong Sheung Wan pier. 
-Tip 3: get to the pier early, since you can't reserve seats in advance. If you want to sit next to your chums, you'll have to queue up and wait your turn to talk to the staff in charge for seat allocation just before boarding. 

Tuesday, 10 April 2012

Wanderings: Blue House, Hong Kong House of Stories



Blue House is a known tourist attraction, but few out-of-town visitors would know about the 香港故事館 HK House of Stories (check out their facebook page, and also their website) situated in one of the old shop fronts on the ground floor. 


The current banner roughly reads as 'WanChai Residents House of Living'. From March 2012 onwards, they will be named as the 'Hong Kong House of Stories', to expand their scope not only to WanChai but to the entirety of Hong Kong. 
I was there to check out their current exhibit held by the YMCA creative arts programme (runs until the 12th of April), whereby a group of post-80s youths were chosen to produce an art piece investigating their relationship with the past, represented through interviewing their own relatives from previous generations. These narratives are linked by the 'past and present' theme, and are also bound together by their common manifestation as a book (booking-binding pun intended.) They are not necessarily representative of an entire generation's approach towards the past, since they are highly personal (one decided to create a book shaped like a beer that was important to their interviewee, another recreated their grandmother's suitcase, and then there was an introspective account about one's changing relation with their father), but maybe this is more constructive in many ways? The post-80s youth are a diverse lot, and it wouldn't be fair to clump all of their voices together in a generalized summary. 

Note: the exhibit is mostly (almost entirely) in Chinese. 

In line with the 'past and present' theme, here is an interactive display to link 'present with future'. Write a letter to yourself, put it in the envelope with your address, and the staff at the House will send it off to you within a couple of months. Only applicable for those with a HK address...
And at the end of the gallery, you can leave behind your comments for each 'book art'  inside its designated opinions book! Feel free to sit on these tiny iron chairs, which were popular for a while in Hong Kong.
One of the employees at the House of Stories was nice enough to give us more information about the place itself: the House is currently an exhibition space, but alternates between holding workshops and forums. It also provides a home for old items that belonged to the elderly residents of WanChai who were forced to move away because of the soaring rents/cost of living, a consequence of inflation and the continuous efforts from estate developers to gentrify the area. (For example, the employee gave rough approximates regarding the cost of the new apartments across the street targeted at young professionals. They used to be valued at around 9600 HKD per square foot, but within the past two years, this has jumped to 14000 HKD per square foot.) 

All the furniture inside the House are donations from residents of WanChai, who have moved away and could not bring these possessions to their new abodes. These items aren't rare and expensive collectibles, but are chosen precisely because they were everyday objects that may still be seen and made today. The point is not to highlight to quirkiness of the past, but to make it relatable, allowing current visitors to see how the items were 'lived in' and used. (Alluding to the text by Appadurai about the 'Social Life of Things', whereby the object itself is not important, but rather the meaning and stories behind it.) 

Collecting physical objects aside, the House also keeps a roster of all the people who moved away and where they are going, so that the previous residents and way of life won't be easily forgotten in this city where memory is fleeting. 

High ceilings inside the Hong Kong House of Stories, reflective of the old-fashioned design of the Blue House. Postcards, photos, and other memorabilia are sold to help maintain the space, since the NGO in charge is non-profit. 
Sign alluding to the previous purpose of the space now used by House of Stories; an old wooden alcohol license remains. These shops lack of any particular layout schematic, which is a trend of the past. Stores were given an empty lot, so that they could arrange their furniture and partition the store space however they want. 
The House of Stories focuses on 'community', especially on 'preservation through documentation'. Of importance is the changing forms of community ties, described as 'weakening' due to the modern way of life in Hong Kong. The old residential blocks, while often small and portrayed to be inhospitable domains, encouraged a sense of trust and mutual reliance through the establishment of communal facilities such as kitchens and bathrooms. These community ties don't always infer close friendships between people (to the point where they will share their life secrets with each other), but to a sense of obligation and responsibility towards the well-being of neighbours. 

In contrast, the employee argued that the structure of our current living quarters, which places emphasis on being self-contained and uses 'privacy' as its selling-point, has greatly contributed to the disintegration of these ties between people. While I feel uncomfortable saying that community ties are 'weakening' (as opposed to using neutral terms such as 'changing'), it is also true that we oftentimes have no idea who our neighbours are. When was the last time we talked to someone who lived next door to us, or could warmly receive a neighbour who has come over to borrow soy sauce/other household goods without making us suspicious? 

I'm also reluctant to implicate the diminishing community ties simply to the changing layout of the structures we now call home (the changing physical forms of housing, and how it impacts our social lives, will be discussed in another post soon.) Afterall, are communities molded only by the physical environments, without accounting for other variables such as input from the complexities of personality? It could easily be said that the changing traits of human sociability should instead be scrutinized when looking at changing community ties. Which then leads to a chicken-or-egg discussion on whether our sociability affected the building types that emerged, or whether our behaviours are shaped by the buildings we are faced with in our daily lives....

Anyways, the Hong Kong House of Stories is a good place to visit for its architecture, its current exhibition, and maybe just for a chit-chat like we had with the employee there. It is located in WanChai, on 74 Stone Nullah Lane.