Read: Hong Kong Corner Houses

I was strolling across the Chinese University Bookshop when the book 'Hong Kong Corner Houses' (街頭街尾) caught my eye. (What also caught my eye was the sign next to the book saying 'discount!') The photography is by Michael Wolf, with an essay inside written by Dr. Lynne DiStefano and Dr. Lee Ho Yin, academics knowledgeable about older Hong Kong architecture. 

Niceeeeee. 

The book provides a great introduction about Corner Houses, a good foundation for one to conduct further research into the topic if necessary. 


I mentioned in a previous post (see 'Trivia: Plug-in Baby') that my hipster ambitions was to live in either a Tang Lau (唐樓) or a Corner House (街角樓). It wasn't elaborated there, but whilst these terms tend to be used interchangeably amongst a lot of people to refer to old flats in the city, they are not the same thing. The essay sets the lay-person straight by highlighting the differences between the two.

A Corner House found on Tonkin Street in Cheung Sha Wan

The lower floor of a Tang Lau, somewhere in Sham Shui Po. Spot the difference?

Both types of old buildings do have commonalities, such as the mixing of commercial and residential purposes within the same structure. But the essay elaborates on how Tang Laus served as a 'prototype' for the later-emerging Corner Houses (1950s/1960s), and details the historical context for the prominence of the latter; factoring in social issues such as rapid population growth and the changing economic production needs. Other more notable differences would be that Corner Houses, in general, appear much taller and larger than Tang Laus. 

The essay is fairly comprehensive, touching upon topics such as the illegal structures in Corner Houses, the pressures of finding space in an increasingly dense city, and the decline of these Corner Houses in later decades. There is also a nifty section about the architects of these Corner Houses, though not a lot of detail is offered. It could be because of a lack of historical documentation*, but it would have been nice to know a little bit more about the backgrounds of those who designed and created these buildings. What sort of thought processes led to the individualistic forms and shapes that is seen? What sort of influences did they have, and what inspired the use of certain motifs?  

The photography is beautiful in its simplicity. Don't expect any historical photos, the images are all based on the recent and the present. I'm not much of a photography critic/expert, but can still appreciate the way the images are composed and the lack of 'twiddling' done. By 'twiddling', I mean the way some photographers use too many filters and impose layers of stylized effects onto the original photo. Not that these techniques don't have merit, but if applied overwhelmingly to architecture photos such as these, it could remove the feeling of 'reality' and 'relatability' from the shots. These photos let the buildings 'speak for itself' (cliche! Cliche phrase!), and lets the reader see that there is beauty in the mundane sights of the everyday. Maybe the hipster in me is naturally attracted to sights of 'urban decay' and perceive laundry hung out onto the streets as a sign of 'character'. 

But the thing that worked against the book, and this may have been the entire point of the book, was its seeming 'timelessness'. Hong Kong is a city that continuously morphs and changes; whilst it is reassuring to have these Corner Houses portrayed as ubiquitous and ever-present, the reader may miss out on a holistic image of what the city is like, and what the city will become. The photos are accompanied by captions stating the technical details of the buildings (such as name, year of first occupation, address, number of floors, architect, and whether it is still standing or demolished), which feels rather cold and mechanical as a means of documenting such buildings. It would be nice to have the human narrative play a bigger role in the writing, such as accounts of what it was like to live in these houses, who lived there, and whatnot. I am inclined to think that because buildings are made by people, and for people, the 'person' should not be omitted from such accounts. 

Whatever my take is on the book, it is ultimately a beautiful volume, and definitely worth checking out. 

Book details: 'Hong Kong Corner Houses', by Michael Wolf. Published by the Hong Kong University Press, 2011. Hardcover. Priced at around 295 HKD (though with the Chinese University Bookshop discount I paid 250 HKD.) 

*historical documentation is generally a rather a shoddy practice in Hong Kong, and this is especially true for blueprints kept by the government. Not only are they sometimes missing, the copies you find might not be entirely accurate. One of my family members was asked to inspect a water main for an institution, and used the official blueprints dating back decades ago for reference on how to find it. Unfortunately, the blueprint was inaccurate; the builders at the time saw fit to move the water main 50m away from the intended spot, but no one updated the schematics for future generations. Even today, there are a lot of piping underground of Hong Kong that may not be in the place it is supposed to be....a surprise for future diggers. 

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Extra Notes:

Another spot of information of interest; many of these Tang Laus and Corner Houses are often limited in height. This could be because they are situated in the old Kai Tak airport flight zone, or it could also be a money-saving practice. The government has a policy saying that if the building is 10 floors or more, the installation of an elevator is required. Therefore, many building owners would choose to have their properties only reach the 9th floor as a means to reduce construction costs (escalators aren't cheap, especially with annual maintenance.) Though this rule is followed rather inconsistently around town...

Event: Open Arts Handicraft Fair, JCCAC

Shek Kip Mei isn't exactly the hipster-hotspot of Hong Kong (see: Chai Wan or Sheung Wan), but the presence of the Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre brings a nice youthful vibe to an area known for its ageing population. Normally the JCCAC is a hub for students of Baptist University/ art course enrollees, with the occasional wanderer to its galleries. 

But today the hip-factor skyrocketted with the Open Arts programme; the halls were roamed by packs of straw-hats, hand-made tunic tops, plaid shirts, cardigans, square-framed glasses, sockless loafer-wearers, patterned tights, and attitude. 

Hello, people! This was taken before the crowds started filing in. The temperature was close to 27 C (probably even higher in such an urban area), but did nothing to dampen the spirits of visitors.   

There were plenty of little stalls selling items of quality and originality (though one stall had a self-made plush Rilakkuma keychain on display. I wouldn't be so fast in jumping onto cries of 'plagiarism', since in Asian societies, imitation can be seen as a compliment.) Most stalls are run by individual designers based in Hong Kong, though some do have upscale platforms displaying their wares (e.g.in big shopping malls), and I did encounter a stall-owner from Macau. 

Goods being sold include small trinkets, jewellery, tote bags, clothing, camera straps, and personalized leather goods (iphone cases and wallets.)  I've chosen to highlight a few stalls; this doesn't mean the others weren't worth mentioning or of high standard, it just reflects my tastes: 

IAMKAMTY

(website: iamkamty/ facebook: iamkamty)

(Thanks to iamkamty for the details!)

Hand-painted shades. And you're allowed to try them on and take photos!

Awesome keychain of the stall-owner's own design, paid $68 for it. Earrings with a similar design go for about $25 each ($50/pair.) 

SINOGATNA

(facebook: sinogatna/ email: sinogatna@gmail.com/ blog: sinogatna.blogspot.com)

The HK-based designer/illustrator of these items infuses a lot of humour into her work. She is a lovely person to talk to, willing to answer questions without forcing you to buy anything (a rarity in 'hard-sell' Hong Kong.)  There is an online shopping website available, and she says that the space will be developed more fully soon.

TEMP HOUSE

(website: http://www.temphouse.hk)

Stall selling some of the prettiest illustrations I've seen. Then again, I favour fantastical imagery such as these done by William, the stall-owner (in photo.) Consists of a nice blend of the imaginary landscape with everyday Asian (maybe more HK-orientated) architecture we see, akin to what Hayao Miyazaki does in his impressive body of work. Anyways, the small postcards in the front of the desk go for about $20 each. (PS: William made that model of the house himself! A lot of detail, very intricate.) 

DA Dopamine

(email: dadopamine@gmail.com/ facebook: dopamine)

For those who love hair accessories and more. They make headbands, hair ties, and hair clips with bows made of  paper (which has been coated to make it water-resistant and stiff.) You'll find all kinds of paper used and arranged in specific ways, including; English, Chinese, and Japanese newspapers; envelopes; note papers and more...

MY LITTLE THING

(facebook: mylittlethingco)

This is one of the stalls that normally has pretty decent public exposure already, with their items found in shopping malls such as Megabox, The Peak, etc. They have a nice array of hand-made feminine jewellery.  The  prominent motifs seem to be derived from 'English' themes, with a lot of laced metal, styles from the Victorian era, with some pieces evoking 'Alice in Wonderland'. 

'Button-like' earrings for sale

The Handcrafts Fair will end on Sunday (the 18th of March 2012), but don't fret if one cannot make it before then! It will return on the 16th-17th of June later this year. 

Directions on how to get there: The JCCAC is located between the Sham Shui Po station of the Tsuen Wan line, and the Shek Kip Mei station of the Kwun Tong line. For unfit people like myself, the latter station is the better option as there is less uphill walking involved. But even with the Shek Kip Mei exit, this isn't a walk for the faint-hearted, especially in the summertime. 

Trivia: Plug-in Baby

BS1363 plugs are rampant in Hong Kong, so for travelers visiting from the U.K. (or from an extensive list ranging from...hm, it might be actually easier to just say that the list comprises of a lot of post-colonial societies), there is no need to worry about adapters and whatnot. So it was confusing for a power-plug-illiterate person, like myself, to find something like this being sold in an electronics supply store in Yau Ma Tei: 

Looks familiar...almost. 

Circular three-prong plugs! Check out these BS546 (15A 3 pin) beauties. The shop lady explained that most of the electrical appliances at home (laptops, microwaves, televisions, lamps, etc.) use the BS1363 for up to 13A. But for the ambitious (read; business-minded) crowd who wish to use electricity not solely for themselves but for a bigger group, such as restaurants and laundromats, the plug must be bigger to allow greater power consumption for the device.


Strangely enough, the electricity bill for using these 15A devices may end up being even cheaper than using 13A ones. It isn't because of any 'bulk-buy' principle (e.g. you buy more electricity, and you get special discounts), but rather, because the technology required to 'step down' the generated power to the required 15A level is not as complex as that for the 13A process. 

If you want to use these rice cookers that serve forty people, you better make sure your venue has sockets for the attached BS546 (15A 3pin.) With the bigger plug, you'll be able to cook this vast vat of rice in the same time it takes for a smaller rice cooker meant for a family of four.

Learning small tidbits just from listening to chatty shop owners. Great way to spend a Saturday! Anyways, this got me thinking about the more about electrical plugs and sockets. 

Plugs might not be the most pressing concern for modern-day flat-hunters in the city, seeing how most people set their sights on the shiny new estates and whatever novelty is offered by land developers. But for hipsters like I who yearn to someday live in an old-fashioned Cantonese-style 'Tong Lau' (唐樓) or a Corner House (街角樓)*, this should be something to look out for. The chances of being able to live in a Tong Lau or Corner House is rather slim (especially given how many owners would sell off their structure to land developers, resulting with the flats being demolished and a new shiny 40-floor apartment building springing up in its place), but I'm strange and like to think about 'what ifs' and the small pragmatic issues that follow. 

An example of a Corner House in Sham Shui Po. A lot of them were vacated years ago, and are sitting around in varying states of disrepair. It would be great if they were refurbished as housing (hipsters will flock to them) or as art studios.   

Hong Kong was not always the BS1363 13A paradise we know today, and the installment of BS1363-friendly sockets was not mandatory until the recent decades. Old flats are likely to have the BS546 13A sockets, but in even older flats, the archaic BS546 5A socket may make an appearance. Most Tong Laus and Corner Houses would have updated their wiring to fit the current standards, though those left vacant for years may have escaped notice. If a BS546 5A socket** is encountered, it would be wise to hire electricians to rewire everything to the BS1363, lest there be a fire if the wrong type of device is plugged in. It means more effort and money for living in a Tong Lau or Corner House, but it is better to have a flat bringing a slice of Hong Kong history, and not a flat that brings about an enactment of Dante's inferno. 

*the difference between the Tang Lau and the Corner Houses will be elaborated on in another post! 
**or, for hip people who crave the complete hipster experience, living in an old-fashioned flat will not sate their needs. They will also go for retro, original, authentic electrical devices with BS546 5A plugs. 

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Side note: 

I wanted to know a little more about the sort of household electrical appliances that were common back when the BS546 was used. Being born in a post-BS546 5A era, I thought it would be nice to ask someone from the older generations, such as my mum and my grandpa. They once lived in a Tong Lau of Sham Shui Po (深水埗)  during the 1950s until the 1970s, in a tiny flat fitted with BS546 sockets. (The flat has since been demolished and is currently being used as a shop.)

But my questions didn't go far; both of them said that the family didn't own electrical appliances back in the day. Although their flat had a lightbulb (so the building was fitted with electricity), they were too poor to afford such luxury items. Only one neighbour on their floor had a television set. Everything was done using older methods; rice was cooked over an open fire, and ironing was done by placing hot coals into metallic boxes with handles. 

So although electricity was available for decades, not everyone had/ wanted access to it back in the past. Given how electrical goods are everywhere (in the public and private spheres of life) in the current Hong Kong, it is difficult to remember what life was like before the plugs and sockets made its way into our daily routines, and to appreciate the conveniences engulfing us today. 

Wanderings: Che Kung Temple

Che Kung Temple (車公廟) is a fairly well-known place in Hong Kong, though it probably won't be in the general populace's everyday consciousness until Lunar New Year hits the city. Which makes it the perfect place to visit on any day of the week, though I personally find the temple to be worth visiting under a festive atmosphere and whilst jostling with the crowds (this not applicable to shopping mall trips.) The crowds visit during the second and third day of every Lunar New Year, depending on when one is done making the New Year rounds of visiting relatives.

The inside of the Che Kung Temple during the New Year. This is not the original structure, but an installment from the 1990s. This photo is from the third day of the Lunar New Year in 2011, this isn't even the peak visiting hour. Normally, from 11am onwards, the police have to cordon off the entrance to let visitors into the temple in batches.

A lot of the background information about Che Kung Temple can be found on the HK tourism website (and even on Wikipedia), so there isn't any point in repeating what is said elsewhere. But while these accounts note that the temple was built to commemorate the General Che Kung, there is also a lesser-mentioned narrative about the temple being built as thanks for Che Kung's help with fending off a plague that hit the Sha Tin Valley region centuries ago, thus providing a physical structure where this appreciation can continue to be displayed even today.

The cynic in me isn't sure whether current visitors are paying their respects to Che Kung, or just praying for better luck in the new year (one being an act of devotion, the other being a bit more orientated towards self-interest), but I suppose the line dividing these two practices is thin, and perhaps arbitrary. Devotion and self-interest are interrelated, especially in the context of spiritual beliefs in today's Hong Kong, which has never been fully articulated or defined (people I've talked to can't even say whether they feel it is superstition or religion, and they don't seem inclined to care for these terms.) Either way, short of wishing to bring harm to others, there really is no wrong reason an individual can have for visiting Che Kung Temple.

Stalls inside and outside Che Kung Temple telling pinwheels to visitors, so that they can 'spin for luck' inside their own homes. (Note; the blue bucket is an old fashioned way vendors used to stash their money. The bucket is attached to an elastic rope and pulled down when in use. Its public placement is deliberate, so that they and other vendors can help keep an eye on it too. You can still see this being done in the public markets.)

Politicians 'representing Hong Kong' visit during the New Year period to 'Kau Chim' (求簽), to literally 'ask for a sign' that indicates the upcoming fortune of Hong Kong. How these politicians think they have the right to represent the entire city is beyond me, though this is a topic to be saved for another day. Funnily enough, the 'sign' received this year has been described as pretty average (meaning; bad, but the media and politicians probably didn't want to paint it that way lest it dampens the city's morale); to which the Hong Kong population can attest to that being fairly accurate. It is only March, but whether it is the political or economic situation, the reaction from a lot of people would be a frustrated 'meh'/'bah!'

The inside of the temple is lined with giant pinmills. Regardless of the meaning these pinmills may have, anyone can appreciate the splashes of vibrant colour they offer for visitors.

Fortune-telling is a service offered at Che Kung Temple, but the main attractions during a New Year temple visit would be the 'wheel-spinning' (a metal fan with blunt edges where you can 'spin for better luck'), and the drum-beating (the loud noise will hopefully wake up Che Kung so that he could hear your wishes.) The queues for both activities are pretty long, but if you're going to make the journey there, you might as well try it out.

A quick note: for those with breathing problems, and those who do not enjoy the smell of incense and smoke, it might be wise to visit on a not-so-festive day. The amount of incense being burned during the New Year can be fairly intense, to the extent where Temple workers themselves wear medical and industrial face masks to protect themselves.

Incense burning is common on festive days, hence some temple workers brandish huge fans hoping to disperse the smoke and to help with air circulation. These are not scented incense, so do not expect floral scents to whiff around in the air.

And then there are the pinwheels. Some of these pinwheels could be better described as windmills, seeing how their sizes can range from keychain-sized to over a meter high. Pinmills styles have small variations every year; in 2011 they sold ones with little birds in the middle of a 'pinwheel cage', and in 2012 the 'pinwheel ball' was more predominant. Different pinwheels will have different wishes written onto their accompanying placards (ranging from academic performance, health status, love life, career progress, personal safety, and many others.) For those with shifty Chinese-reading skills (like yours truly), you can simply ask the vendor to find the one you want.

Pinwheels are not expensive, and bartering is an option (especially for multiple purchases.) My mother and I each bought a medium-sized pinmill this year, which brought the total cost to 45HKD. My mother bartered and asked the vendor to lower it to 42HKD, to which the vendor told us off for choosing an 'unlucky number' (the number '42' in Cantonese sounds like the word for 'death') and asked us to pay 38HKD instead.

So the last issue remains; how does one get to the Che Kung Temple? With this being Hong Kong, where old structures are never too far away from the comforts of 'urban modernity', the MTR has a Che Kung Temple Station on the Wu Kai Sha Line which should take you directly to the proximity of the temple. But here is a tip: is better to get off at Tai Wai Station and just walk there. It is less than 200 meters away from the stop, the route is well sign-posted, and it saves you the extra train fare. Plus, if you want to grab a bite before heading to the temple, Tai Wai does offer a lot of food joints.